Parts List

Optional parts are noted above. Among the options are:

When finished, the board will look like:

I recommend mounting parts in the following order. This order is basically working from the center out, so you have the ability to get your solder iron into place.

1. The first part to mount is the CPU (IC1). Be sure to note where pin 1 is. The 68HC912D60 has a small indent in one corner that indicates pin 1. The board has a small 1 near pin 1. It can be seen in the picture below.
   
2. Solder IC1 onto the board. (See Soldering Surface Mount Parts for instructions).
3. Turn the board over. The next steps involve mounting all of the surface mount parts on the back. There is a suggested order.
4. If you plan to install the RS232/TTL conversion, then you should consider mounting the parts in the following order: C5, C7, C8, then IC2, then C6. This allows you enough room to solder the capacitors C7 and C8 without IC2 interfering. You will notice this leaves you access to the pins of IC2. You need to be sure to align the dot on the MAX3221 (IC2) with the pattern on the silkscreen.
5. Install the capacitors C4 and C12.
6. If you plan to install the serial EEPROM, do so now. It is IC4. Be sure to align pin 1 correctly. There is a very small dot in the plastic case above pin 1. The Microchip logo on the part is usually just above it. If you can read the writing on the chip, pin 1 should be the lower left corner.
7. That finishes the backside. Turn the board over. Time to finish the rest of the surface mount parts on the top.
8. Mount capacitors C9, C10, C11, C13, C14, C15, and C16. Try to get them as centered on the pads as you can. Some have adjoining components that make for a tight fit.
9. Time for the through hole components. There are two basic ways to approach these parts. One is to solder each part as you install it. The other is to stuff the entire board then solder them at once. It is your choice. I assume you will manage to solder then trim the excess leads on your own.
10. Start with the crystal Q1. It isn't polarized, so it can go in either way.
11. Capacitors C1 and C2 are marked with a 220 on the case. These are not polarized, and can be inserted either way.
12. Insert IC3, which is the MC34064P-5 Low Voltage Reset chip. This part is polarized. You should align the case with the silkscreen.
13. Insert S1, which is a 6mm reset switch. It is not polarized, though it will only fit in two directions.
14. Insert RN1, which is a resistor network. This part contains 4 individual 10k resistors. Though not strictly polarized, it is good to align pin 1 (marked with a dot on the package) with pin 1 on the boards silkscreen.
15. Insert capacitor C3, which is a 10uF electrolytic capacitor. These are polarized. Industry practice usually marks the negative '-' lead on the capacitor. Ironicially, seems that most PCB programs marked the '+' pad on the circuit layout. You want to align the capactior so the '-' lead is in the unmarked pad, and so the unmarked capacitor lead is in the '+' pad.
16. Now you should install the components for the FLASH programming voltage. This step is only required if you have the 912D60 or 912DG128 parts. If you have the 912D60A or subsequent 'A' versions of the part, then you can omit these parts as the FLASH is programmed using an internal charge pump.  If you need the flash programming voltage, insert diode D1. This part is polarized. Diodes usually have a black or white band on one end. This tells you which end is the Cathode. You will find a bar on the silkscreen to tell you the proper orientation. The lead spacing on the board is a litttle bit wide. Install the SW-VFP. The silkscreen name is missing, but its layout is just about D1. You can wait to install PWR-VFP until a later step.
17. You can install an optional LED to indicate that power is on to the board. This is a nice indicator to tell you that you have board power. However, if you are trying to conserve power, then the LED1 and R1 parts can be safely left off. Install R1 (orange orange brown), then install LED1. The LED1 part is polarized. The cathode or 'flat' side of the LED goes towards the edge of the board. The cathode is usually the shorter of the two leads on an LED.
18. If you haven't done so yet, this is a good time to solder the through hole connections.
19. Next, install the BDM12 connector. This is a 2x3 header.
20. If you installed the RS232/TTL conversion circuit, then you can install SERIAL0, which is the DB9 connector. It fits onto the board by inserting the PCB between the rows of connectors.
21. There are 25 more connectors on the board, but not all of them are required. There are PORT connectors, IOC connectors, and power connectors. The PORT connectors allow you to connect to a specific port. The IOC connectors allow you to connect to each of the Input Output Capture pins. The power connectors supply power to the board. If in doubt, it doesn't hurt to install all of the connectors.
22. Insert a 2x5 header into PORTT, PORTP, PORTS, PORTADY, PORTADX, PORTA, PORTH, PORTB, and PORTG. Carefully turn the board over. You will likely drop one or two of these connectors. Thats OK, I suggest soldering ONLY ONE PIN on each connector that didn't fall out to hold it in place. Then, if needed, reinsert the dropped parts and solder tack them. Turn the board over and look at the alignment of all of these connectors. Make sure they are seated fully, and seem to be fairly well aligned. If needed, adjust by heating the tacked pin. Once you are happy, turn the board solder side up and solder each pin. There are a lot of them, but it doesn't take long.
23. Insert the 8 IOC connectors (1x3 headers). As before, solder tack 1 pin each and check the alignment of the parts. If you are happy, then solder the rest of the pins.
24. An optional connector PWR-IOC is can be installed. This connector allows you to provide seperate supply voltage to the IOC pins by cutting a jumper on the back. This part is usually used if you are going to run more than a couple of servo motors or other high supply current components from these pins. You can install it later, it won't affect the operation of the board.
25. If you need to connect a 12volt Vfp (for Flash Programming), install PWR-VFP now.
26. The last connector is the PWR connector. Install it, it is required to run the board.
27. The last optional step is the installation of headers into U1, U2, U3, and U4. These 2x14 connectors give you direct access to all 112 pins of the CPU. I usually don't provide connectors for these as everyone seems to want a different configuration. Common ones are to install female header sockets on the bottom of the board to plug into a larger breadboard. Others like to put male headers on the top. Most people don't install anything.

Congratulations, you are done! Take a few minutes to examine all those solder joints. You are looking for missed pins, solder bridges, and cold solder joints. I highly recommend spending a minute looking it over. You will usually find something that doesn't look right!